Sporrans: The perfect pouch

The craft of making sporrans by hand is at risk, due to cheap imports, but one company is determined to continue making quality products

WORDS AND PHOTOS Jeremy Flint

The making of sporrans has been a part of Scottish culture for centuries. The exact origins of sporrans are unknown, but it is believed that they originated in the 12th century as part of the male Scottish Highland dress. A survival of the medieval purse, the sporran (Gaelic for purse) was in essence the Highlander’s pocket, as they wore kilts rather than trousers.

Traditionally, the sporran, often made of animal skin, was worn around the waist and was gathered at the top by simple drawstrings, and was used to carry oats and other items. Over the years the purpose of a sporran transformed into a way to carry ammunition for Highland soldiers and daily rations, while the three tassels featured at the front, whose original purpose was to hit flies away from the food kept inside, remained. Today, a sporran has evolved from its basic design into a decorative and essential item of Highland dress, which accompanies a Scotsman’s kilt.

They are worn for anything from weddings to special events and significant celebrations, including St Andrew’s Day and Hogmanay, and today they are used to store cash, keys, and mobile phones. Sporrans are still widely used in pipe bands and for ceremonial purposes in the UK and Canadian military too.

According to the Heritage Crafts Association, the art of making sporrans by hand is now an endangered craft with only a handful of workers remaining in Scotland.

One leading light in upholding the craft is William E Scott and Son, a family-run business that has been at the centre of the sporran making industry for decades. Four generations have been at the helm of this company where the tricks of the trade and intricacies of the craft have been kept in the family as the business has passed from father to son over the years.

The business has been serving the people of Edinburgh and its customers for almost 90 years since it was established in 1937. William E Scott and Son still operates from premises in the heart of Edinburgh, where it has been based for more than 50 years. I met up with Eddie Docherty at the company premises in Causewayside, Newington, to find out more about this fascinating tradition. Eddie tells me: “I am a sporran maker by trade and joined the team after leaving school, aged 16, in January 1977, with the help of my sister, who worked there. “She recommended me to the owner, Malcolm, and I have worked here ever since.”

When Eddie started, there were 22 members of staff including Malcolm’s grandfather who worked two days a week, aged 90. “I worked with both Malcolm’s father and grandfather and learnt the ropes of making sporrans from Malcolm,” he says.

Today, there are three other staff members who work at the company, including Ann who machine sews, Susan who hand sews and Alasdair, responsible for the admin and IT. “It’s a fantastic place to work, everyone gets on and there is a nice family rapport,” says Eddie.

While Eddie has been with the company for more than 45 years, he’s a newbie compared to some. “One of our staff recently retired after 63 years of service,” he says.

Eddie has loved his job ever since taking up his apprenticeship. He says: “I have learnt how to create beautifully sophisticated sporrans and really enjoy the process of making them by hand. I like everything about the job and all of the different aspects of making each of the parts. No two days are the same, the job is very varied and there are always different things to do.

“One day I am run off my feet with orders, then the next day is a bit quieter; either way, we make and send sporrans out every day.” Eddie also makes buckles and belts by hand and machine.

Continuing the company’s role and reputation as pioneers in sporran design, Eddie produces an exclusive collection of sporrans, which he manufactures by hand, including dress, semi-dress, and day sporrans.

“Each sporran is made from scratch with the opportunity to choose your own design,” he says.

They are made from a range of materials such as leather, skins (including seal skins from Greenland), fur and metal. “I punch holes in the front piece using a hydraulic machine to add the bolts and fixings later.” The gussets (sides) are then hand cut, stitched and binded (by glue) to the front and back pieces before adding the cantle (metal top part), tassels (using wire) and belt chain to form the ornately decorated pouch.” It’s a team effort with certain parts being machine sewn by Ann and hand sewn by Susan.

Eddie truly is a highly skilled craftsman in all aspects of traditional sporran manufacture and the fantastic craftsmanship is evident to see in the unique sporran designs made at William E Scott and Son, which is Scotland’s largest sporran supplier, and exports its collection worldwide.

While demand is good, there is an increase in competition from cheaper, mass-produced imports from overseas.

Besides the pre-designed sporrans, Scott and Son makes incredible customised products for its clients. Eddie says, “when Artisans of Scotland want something unique, they approach us with a design, and we build a sporran to their requirements. These are my favourite type of commissions as we can create different sporrans by blending various materials together such as a light-coloured seal skin with black tussles to give a new and distinct style.”

Gordon Nicolson Kiltmakers is another favourite client of Eddie’s and one of the company’s biggest customers. They work closely together to create different sporrans to match Gordon’s exclusive tartan designs. Eddie says, “Gordon will pick his own materials for these sporrans, including different skins and leather gussets and we will create them for him.”

Extremely proud of the part he has played in maintaining this wonderful, traditional Scottish craft, Eddie says, “I hope to pass on my skills to the next generation of makers and keep the wonderful heritage and traditions of sporran making alive.”

If you would like to find out more about William E Scott & Son’s sporrans or order one yourself, go to sporranmaker.com