Published in Scotland Magazine Issue 5 on 4/11/2002.

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Fayre Game

SUE LAWRENCE EXPLAINS WHY GAME IS AN ‘IDEAL MODERN FOOD’ AND SHARES
EXPERT TIPS ON HOW TO PRODUCE DELICIOUS AND HEALTHY DISHES

We are fortunate in Scotland to have some of the finest game in the world. And although we might not tuck into heron or swan as our mediæval ancestors used to, we still have plenty to choose from. From the start of the season (August 12th when the grouse season starts) until February, we can chose from a variety of furred and feathered game. From the more common pheasant, venison and partridge to the rarer roe deer, teal, widgeon and hare, there is good choice at butchers throughout the land, so we can feast on this super-healthy meat. One of the most natural of all foods, it is free from additives or chemical feed. And because game is by nature wild, the animals or birds have to work
extremely hard to obtain their food and so have very little fat on them. In these days of low-fat, lean cuisine, game surely constitutes an ideal
modern food.

Although game was originally eaten by all, (prehistoric man’s diet was not all roots and berries!) it gradually became exclusive to the
wealthy and remained so until relatively recently. Pictures of great haunches of venison served up on large silver platters surrounded by pomp and ceremony suggest baronial splendour: the fare of landed gentry rather then croftsmen. But prices have come down in Scotland and so now game is losing some of its exclusivity tag.

Because game is so lean, it should be cooked judiciously. As a general rule, either fast roast or slowly braise with plenty of liquid to keep it
moist and tender. If you opt for fast .....

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By Sue Lawrence

Section : Scottish Food

Page number : 60