Published in Scotland Magazine Issue 38 on 11/04/2008.

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All aboard the night train

Richard Ford climbs aboard the Caledonian Sleeper, a night-time train service that operates between London and Scotland.

We try not to tell people about it – they might come on here!” chortled Jeffrey, the jovial old gent in the lounge car. We were sharing a whisky (or two) aboard the 21:15 Caledonian Sleeper service from London Euston up to Fort William.

My journey began when I set foot inside the first class carriage which was to be my home for the evening. I chose the Fort William service, otherwise known as ‘The Deerstalker,’ as I’d heard that it afforded the best views of all the Cally Sleepers.

I was immediately greeted by Kate, our designated stewardess, who came bounding up to me. Full of Scots cheer, she gave me a hearty welcome aboard and intuitively announced: “I’m assuming this is the first time you’ve been on the Caledonian Sleeper?” As I later learnt, this was actually code for “I haven’t seen you before.” Kate has been working on the route for about 16 years, and knows it, and its regulars, like the back of her hand.

After a short briefing from Kate, my next stop was the lounge car following a tip-off that the haggis, neeps and tatties were worth a shot, but I’d also been told on the sly that the train carried a very limited supply.

Determined to secure a portion, I raced down the corridors, reminiscent of a scene from Hitchcock’s The 39 Steps. To my relief, my efforts did not go unrewarded as I sat down to a haggis supper at 80mph.

After dinner, I took my single malt and pitched up next to Jeffrey and several other passengers. Our topic of conversation: why my companions ha.....

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By Sally Toms

Section : Best of Scotland

Page number : 21