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Issue 35 - Come hell or high water

Scotland Magazine Issue 35
November 2007

 

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Come hell or high water

James Carron explores the Elie chain walk, one of Fife's most unusual coastal walks

Come hell or high water (Issue 35)

The Elie chain walk is one of Scotland's best-kept coastal secrets. To call it a walk is not strictly accurate; it is more of a scramble, requiring a healthy spirit of adventure, a good measure of agility and a strong head for heights.

Created in the 1920s by a group of enterprising local people, it is the only trail in the country to utilise fixed chains and posts, a feature more common on continental mountain ranges like the Alps, Pyrenees and Dolomites.

They provide access to a fascinating stretch of the Fife coastline, one littered with secret coves and caves, all with a story to tell.

Although the walk is connected to the holiday town of Elie by name, it is geographically closer to the neighbouring royal burgh of Earlsferry, the older of the two communities. The village was the northern terminus of an early ferry route, linking lands owned by the earls of Fife here and at North Berwick, across the Firth of Forth. The route was well used by pilgrims heading for St Andrews.

The ferry service ceased in 1600 and although Earlsferry had by this time been bestowed with the status of a Royal burgh, allowing it to trade overseas, most skippers preferred to use the better harbour at Elie.

There appears to be no right or wrong way to do the chain walk; some traditionally start at the east end, others at the west. But all chain walkers must check the tides before setting out. The route is immersed at high water and can only be safely completed when the sea is out, or at least ...

 

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