Published in Scotland Magazine Issue 32 on 13/04/2007.

This article is 16 months old and some information provided may be time sensitive. Please check all details of events, tours, opening times and other information before travelling or making arrangements.

An island of contrasts (Isle of Mull)

The Isle of Mull in Scotland's Inner Hebrides is more than just a coach ride to Iona. John Hannavy reports

Iona is the day-trip centre of the Hebrides. The CalMac ferry MV Isle of Mull leaves Oban mid-morning, every morning, packed with visitors bound for the tiny island. They arrive at Craignure on Mull and are met by a fleet of coaches which snake their way down the single track roads to the south west tip, reaching the little ferry pier at Fionnphort at lunchtime. The peace and tranquility of Iona is forgotten for two or three hours until the coaches start the long trail back to Craignure.

However, the first ferry leaves Oban much, much earlier, and connects with a service bus at Craignure. For the early riser, the reward is two or three hours on Iona with the island almost deserted. Time to wander over the nunnery ruins, time to enjoy the abbey and its environs – and to be able to stand back and admire. And it was in making that journey nearly 20 years ago that I first ‘discovered’ Mull. I have since ‘rediscovered’ it with increasing frequency.

That first experience of the rural bus journey across Mull was a delight – stopping at road-ends to wait for locals who depend on the service to do their shopping. To so many people, Mull is little more than an unspoiled interlude between the bustle of Oban and the tourism of Iona – and that is a pity for the island is unique. From the bustle and brightly-coloured 18th century charm of Tobermory in the north, to the superb beaches in the south, and from the 500 year old cross in Pennygown Church near Salen to the only island railway i.....

To read the rest of this article you can buy this issue or subscribe to Scotland Magazine to have every issue delivered direct to your door.

By John Hannavy

Section : Scottish Islands

Page number : 18