Published in Scotland Magazine Issue 30 on 01/12/2006.

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Scott in Mull and Iona (Sir Walter Scott)

The latest in our series by Ian Mitchell charting Sir Walter Scott’s travels around the Scottish islands

Almost everything Scott had seen had been new to him, since he had left Edinburgh in 1814 on the vessel of the Northern Light-House Commissioners, sailing to Shetland and then to the Hebrides.

But coming to Iona he was on familiar ground. In 1810 he had been invited by MacDonald of Staffa, to visit. He had then seen Fingal’s cave on Staffa which Scott said was “the most wonderful place of the kind that imagination can conceive.” On Ulbha, where MacDonald had his house, Scott’s feudal romance was kindled.

“His people received us under arms, and with a discharge of musketry and artillery.

His piper was in constant attendance on our parties and wakened us with his music.” With MacDonald in 1810 he had also visited Iona, which belonged to the Duke of Argyll.

Though Scott was a snob and fervent believer in aristocratic rule, he was not slow to criticise those he felt neglected their duties. The Laird of Staffa he praised for looking after the welfare of his people. But “I wish I could say the same for the Duke of Argyll”, commented Scott in a private letter. On Iona in 1810 he saw the wretched state of poverty of the inhabitants and records “We were surrounded on the beach by boys and girls, almost naked, all begging for charity and some offering pebbles for sale.” On his return in 1814 he commented “my eyes, familiarised with the wretchedness of Zetland (Shetland) and the Harris, are less shocked with that of Iona.” Again Scott noted the double-edged sword of tourism, bringin.....

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By Ian Mitchell

Section : Scott's Islands

Page number : 60