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Scotland Magazine Issue 29
October 2006
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Skye & the Western Isles
Where to visit
Skye
The Cuillins
Impressive mountain range in the south of the island which should be respected.
World class climbing for the expert, challenging walking for the fit. Great views for the less sporty.
The Quirang
Stunning views to Wester Ross and Staffin Bay and amazing rock formations and pinnacles caused by lava formations.
Dunvegan Castle
Tour the castle, visit the loch side gardens and enjoy boat trips to see the seals. Busy café and gift shop. Open all the year round, with facilities open from March to October.
www.dunvegancastle.com Tel: +44 (0)1470 521 206
Skye Museum of Island Life, Kilmuir
Converted cottages recreating the life of a crofter and a typical small thatched township. The grave of Flora Macdonald is close by.
www.skyemuseum.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)1470 552 206
Edinbane Pottery, Edinbane
Long established working pottery. Open all the year round though not weekends in winter.
www.edinbane-pottery.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)1470 582 234
Skye Silver, Colbost
Specialists in local jewellery sold in an old schoolhouse. Many Celtic designs. Open March to October, seven days.
www.skyesilver.com Tel: +44 (0)1470 511 263
The Western Isles
The best way to see the islands is on a guided tour. Here are some of the best of them.
Classique Tours
Modern and vintage coaches and quality accommodation across the islands.
www.classiquetours.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)1418 894 050
Seatrek
Family wildlife trips from one hour to a full day.
www.seatrek.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)1851 672 464
Out and About Tours
Chris Ryan provides day tours with local history and culture.
www.hebridean-holidays.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)1851 612 288
Wilderness Scotland
Nine night island odyssey running from May to August.
www.wildernessscotland.com Tel: +44 (0)1316 256 636
Scenic Cruises
Wildlife and natural history tours
www.scenic-cruises.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)1859 530 310
Island Cruising
Wildlife, diving and birdwatching cruises
www.island-cruising.com Tel: +44 (0)1851 672 381
Albannach
Guided Tours Tailor-made tours and tour planning.
www.albannachtours.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)1851 830 433
Where to eat
Skye
An Tuireann Café, near Portree
Casual café with coffee shop atmosphere and good food.
Tel: +44 (0)1478 613 306
The Chandlery
Building its own reputation but part of the Bosville Hotel.
Tel: +44 (0)1478 612 846
Creelers, Broadford
Small seafood restaurant and takeaway, popular with locals.
Tel: +44 (0)1471 822 2810
Harbour View, Portree
Small and intimate seafood dining.
Tel: +44 (0)1478 612 069
Kinloch Lodge, Sleat
Lady Claire MacDonald’s home is larger than life – grandiose dining in every way.
Tel: +44 (0)1471 833 333
Lochbay Seafood, Waternish
Small and simple seafood restaurant at the side of the Loch.
Tel: +44 (0)1470 592 235
Old School, Dunvegan
Respected lunch and dinner destination with good vegetarian options.
Tel: +44 (0)1470 521 421
Pasta Shed, Armadale
Pizzas on the quayside where the Mallaig ferry arrives.
Tel: +44 (0)1470 844 222
Three Chimneys, Colbost
Multi-award winning restaurant specialising in local home cooking. Among the best restaurants in Britain.
Tel: +44 (0)1470 511 258
The Western Isles
Bonaventure Aird Uig, Lewis
French cuisine in the remotest most westerly part of the United Kingdom.
Tel: +44 (0)1851 672 474
Copper Kettle, Dalbeg, Lewis
Very small but with excellent home cooking. Terrace dining in the summer.
Tel: +44 (0)1851 710 592
First Fruits Tearoom, Tarbert, Harris
Quality home cooking in nice environment.
Tel: +44 (0)1859 502 439
Thai Café, Stornaway, Lewis
Incongruous maybe, but wonderful Thai food in a convivial atmosphere.
Tel: +44 (0)1851 701 811
Tigh Mealros, Garynahine, Lewis
Down to earth surf and turf.
Tel: +44 (0)1851 621 333
HOW TO GET THERE
By boat: Caledonian Macbrayne operate car and passenger ferry services to the Western Isles: For enquiries tel: +44 (0)1475 650 100 For bookings tel: +44 (0)8705 650 000 www.calmac.co.uk
By air: There are small airports on Barra, Benbecula and Lewis: British Airways flight information tel: +44 (0)345 222 111 www.britishairways.com
By road: Buses to the area operate from Inverness, Fort William and Glasgow. Most of these buses will take you to Portree, some go as far as Uig. Citylink (www.citylink.co.uk).
Skye can be reached by road from Kyle of Lochalsh via the bridge, for which there is no toll.
Trusted car hire companies include Thrifty (www.thrifty.com) and Arnold Clark (www.arnoldclark.co.uk
Where to stay
Skye
Cuillin Hills Hotel, Portree
Secluded and slightly oddball mansion down by the water’s edge.
Tel: +44 (0)1478 612 003
Eilean Iarmain, Sleat
Gaelic Inn in a great location and with wholesome food and a homely pub.
Tel: +44 (0)1471 833 332 www.eileaniarmain.com
Flodigarry, near Portree
At the north end of the island and with exceptional views and a locals’ bar.
Tel: +44 (0)1470 552 203
Greshornish House Hotel, Dunvegan
Small country house hotel with home-made food and distinctive atmosphere.
Tel: +44 (0)1470 582 266
The Stein Inn, Waternish
Ancient inn with atmospheric pub and quality rooms. Remote.
Tel: +44 (0)1470 592 362
The Western Isles
Castlebay Hotel, Barra
Close to the ferry terminal and excellent value for money. Lively locals pub and quality food.
Tel: +44 (0)1871 810 223
Isle of Barra Hotel, Barra
Modern hotel built to take advantage of the views and situated on the beach.
Tel: +44 (0)1871 810 383
Leachin House, Tarbert, N Harris
Small family hotel with shared meals but very personal.
Tel: +44 (0)1859 502 157
Lochboisdale Hotel, Lochboisdale, S Uist
Rough and ready fishermen’s hotel with a very good bar.
Tel: +44 (0)1471 822 270
Park Guest House, Stornaway, Lewis
Very good menu and comfy rooms. Open for meals to non-residents.
Tel: +44 (0)1851 702 485
Pollachar Inn, S Uist
Remote scenic inn with a good atmosphere.
Tel: +44 (0)1878 700 215
Rodel House, South Harris
Recently refurbished hotel in a truly secluded location in the middle of nowhere. Homemade gastro-pub style menu. Includes selfcatering properties.
Tel: +44 (0)1859 520 210
Royal Hotel, Stornaway, Lewis
Value for money hotel in the centre of town. Reasonable food and accommodation and ideal if you’re on a budget.
Tel: +44 (0)1851 702 109
Scarista House, South Harris
Excellent retreat, near a stunning and often deserted beach. Offers self-catering accommodation.
Tel: +44 (0)1859 550 238