Published in Scotland Magazine Issue 29 on 25/10/2006.

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Enticing isles

John Hannavy visits the west coast islands of Islay and Jura

Islay and Jura are more directly reached from the mainland by the short sailing from Kennacraig on Kintyre, but they came into our itinerary as part of a round trip island-hopping voyage from Oban via Colonsay.

It was a relatively short sail south from Scalasaig on Colonsay to Port Askaig on Islay – one of two CalMac ports of call on the island. The other – Port Ellen – offers daily sailings to and from Kennacraig.

Port Askaig is a busy little harbour, with bulk carriers sometimes moving out of the way as the ferry approaches, returning to continue unloading malted barley for the island’s many distilleries once the berth is clear again.

The distilleries – Ardbeg, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Lagavulin, Laphroaig and more recently Kilchoman – get plenty of coverage in Scotland Magazine and our sister publication Whisky Magazine, so for this essay, we’ll just acknowledge that they are there and that they are an essential part of any visit to the island.

On the way to enjoy a splendid tour of the distillery at Bowmore on the shores of Loch Indaal, though, don’t forget to visit the village’s unique round church. Bowmore itself dates only from 1767 when the village of Kilarrow was razed to the ground to improve the grounds of Islay House, and the church, more correctly known as Kilarrow Parish Church, was one of the first buildings in the new settlement. By the time the distillery opened in 1779, more than 500 people lived in the village and worshipped in th.....

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By John Hannavy

Section : Scottish Islands

Page number : 16