Against the grain

Tucked away in Edinburgh's Old Town lies a restaurant that is well worth discovering. Sally Toms picks up her knife and fork

Hidden amongst the colourful shop fronts of Edinburgh's Victoria Street, just below the Royal Mile, lies an unassuming restaurant called The Grain Store.

Outside, there's a plain looking board printed with the menu and comments from happy diners; including reviews from a few local papers and a stand-out comment from one of the world's greatest chefs: “One the tastiest pieces of venison I've ever eaten,” quotes Anton Mosimann from behind the peeling plastic.

But that's just typical of The Grain Store – the most modest, self-assured and unpretentious place to eat in the city.

From the street, there is a short metal staircase leading up into what was the storerooms for the shops below.

Inside the restaurant, it has a kind of rustic French charm; there is exposed stonework, polished wooden floors and an oversized clock and dried flower garlands decorating the walls. There are low vaulted ceilings, archways, pillars and little alcoves, and the overall effect is plain but intimate.

Its chunky wooden tables are decorated simply: a thistle in a glass, a candle, shining cutlery and a plain white napkin.

The menu changes regularly. Chef Carlos Coxon's summer menus includes Perthshire saddle of venison with quinoa and a ginger infused jus (Mosimann didn't do it enough justice, it is the best piece of venison you will ever eat); West Coast king scallops with almond and chive velouté; warm pear dartois with apricot brandy ice cream; vanilla pannacotta with honey roast figs. A...

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• By : Sally Toms
• In : Best of Scotland
• Issue : 27
• Page : 41
• Words : 745