Breakfast of champions

Sue Lawrence looks at the traditional Scottish breakfast and adds a few ideas of her own...

Remember when sideboards groaned with silver salvers of bacon, eggs, sausages and kippers? No, neither do I. So why does this constitute the breakfast of our dreams? This scene is idyllic not just because of the unusual concept of a long, leisurely breakfast; nor simply the profusion of victuals. It is because you have not cooked it; you merely followed the wafting bacon smells down the stairs to arrive at the bountiful breakfast table.

Most of us no longer rattle around in huge country houses with servants to curl the butter, decant the marmalade and iron the newspaper (yes, they really used to do that). For most of us, it is simply a question of grabbing whatever we can in between gulps of tea or coffee while rushing around the kitchen looking for misplaced socks or car keys.

In Scotland we have a rich tradition at breakfast time, based around porridge, that glorious dish that transcends class and circumstance. For every family, from poor crofter to noble laird, the day would have begun with porridge. Wholesome and nutritious, it is easy to make and even easier to eat. The traditional way is to soak the oatmeal overnight then cook, stirring as often as possible, with a long wooden stick called a spurtle, until thick and creamy. Only salt and water are added to the oats as they cook. Nowadays they are often served with brown sugar, honey and even cream and whisky, but still cooked with salt, never sugar. When my parents were growing up, their porridge ritual was one that...

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• By : Sue Lawrence
• In : Food
• Issue : 2
• Page : 64
• Words : 1,017