A deer dish for dinner

Venison is becoming an increasingly common sight on British dinner tables. Sue Lawrence looks at why it is such a good meat product, and offers some recipes

The aroma of the juniper berries evoked thoughts of tonic, ice and lemon. The Arctic temperatures outside sharpened my appetite. But it was above all the taste of the reindeer stew itself which made my first experience of venison memorable. Had the alternative in that Lapp restaurant been something other than moose steak with moose nose sauce, I might never have tried the venison. But I did, and have adored it ever since.

And returning from Lapland to Scotland, home of the finest venison on earth (biased, moi?). I was relieved to find it is now far more widely available, in game dealers, butchers and also supermarkets.

There is a choice between farmed and wild. Wild venison can be the very best, but occasionally the worst of experiences.

It is primarily the age of the deer, not its provenance, which determines the quality of the meat. A geriatric wild deer will taste tough as old boots, although it can be improved slightly with longer hanging (up to three weeks) and a marinade of red wine and juniper berries.

To ensure your wild venison is from a young beast, buy from a dependable game dealer; for it can be difficult to judge the age once the head has been removed from the carcass. A good choice is roe deer which is never farmed, always wild. The meat is generally tender and finely flavoured, because of its relatively short life-span. Fillet of wild roe, cooked correctly, cuts like butter. Equally tender are farmed red or sika deer, because they too are sold young.

Deer ...

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• By : Sue Lawrence
• In : Food
• Issue : 19
• Page : 44
• Words : 1,025