Special place where everything's up in smoke

The Rannoch Smokery produces superb smoked meat products. Sally Toms visited it

I hope none of you are vegetarians, if you are you've come to the wrong place.” Richard Barclay, owner and managing director of Rannoch Smokery, introduces himself to our group over a delicious looking lunch of crusty bread, green salad and a large plate of Rannoch Smokery's produce; venison, beef, duck, chicken, pork and goose – sauced, smoked and sliced.

We look hungry. He looks relieved.

Rannoch Smokery is situated in the pretty Perthshire village of Kinloch Rannoch, which may well be the most geographically central village in Scotland. Sandwiched between Loch Rannoch and the well-known peak of Schiehallion (or so I'm told, it was completely hidden by cloud during our visit), the smokery itself is plain-looking but modern. Inside, the walls are adorned with awards of the highest order (five alone from this year's Great Taste food awards).

The success of the Barclay family business began one winter's day in 1986; Richard's father Leo had culled six deer that day, but it had snowed so heavily that the game dealer physically couldn't make it up to Kinloch Rannoch to collect them. Not having enough space in his freezer for six large hinds, Leo Barclay decided to experiment.

He brined the venison in the bath of the little estate cottage, then smoked them in the old wooden kennels. Primitive, but effective.

Friends and family couldn't get enough. So he built a small smokery and started a business. It flourished.

In November 1993 the whole lot (rather ironically) burnt...

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• By : Sally Toms
• In : Food
• Issue : 18
• Page : 52
• Words : 1,116