Published in Scotland Magazine Issue 17 on 29/11/2004.

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Island of lost souls (Western Isles)

Sally Toms extolls the virtues of one of Scotland’s last true Gaelic outposts

At Scotland’s most north westerly point, separated from the Scottish mainland and from Skye by the stormy stretch of water known as the Minch and the Little Minch, there lies a 150 mile long Hebridean island chain known as the ‘The Western Isles’.

The largest of these islands are Lewis and Harris (one island), North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra. But the Western Isles include countless smaller islands, whose names are only pronounceable in Gaelic and are inhabited only by seabirds and sheep.

Skye is where you will find the most activity. Fifty miles from end to end, it is attached by bridge to mainland Scotland at Kyle of Lochalsh, and is therefore the easiest island to reach. Portree is the multi-coloured capital, and is a good starting point for further exploration of these parts.

The Skye-line is dominated by the spectacular Cuillin mountain range, which continues to attract hardcore hill walkers from all over the world. The 986m summit is known as the inaccessible pinnacle’ for reasons all too obvious when you’re standing at the bottom of it.

South of Skye are another group of islands known as the ‘Small Isles’: Rhum, Eigg, Muck and Canna. And, like all of the islands, each is distinctly different: Rhum is a nature reserve entirely owned by Scottish Natural Heritage;Muck is flat and sandy with beautiful shell-sand beaches; Canna has a hill that contains enough iron to affect the compasses of passing ships; Eigg has one rock peak and a turbulent past.

Lewis an.....

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By Sally Toms

Section : Regional Focus

Page number : 36