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Issue 16 - All the allure of Whisky Galore

Scotland Magazine Issue 16
September 2004

 

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All the allure of Whisky Galore

Barra in the Outer Hebrides takes some getting to. But as Robin McKelvie reports, its mix of history and stunning nature make it worth the effort

All the allure of Whisky Galore (Issue 16)

Swooping in over the sea the airport appears amidst a rumble of hills overlooking the sweeping sands of Cockle Bay. There is a tiny terminal building, but no runway.

The ‘Twin Otter' tugs around for its final approach, drops down on to the beach and then bounces along to the terminal.

The Barra service is the only one in the British Airways global timetable that includes the caveat ‘subject to tides' and this is no ordinary airport.

Then again Barra is no ordinary island; more a compact haven that wraps up all of the best bits of the Outer Hebrides in one stunning package.

Tucked as it is on the southern end of the Outer Hebrides, getting to Barra is all part of the fun. Whether sweeping in for that thrilling landing or cruising into the only settlement of any real size, Castlebay, aboard the ferry from Oban, the island is instantly appealing.

It may only be eight miles long and five miles wide, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in diversity with the vaulting hulks of Ben Tangaval and Heaval giving way to rambling glens, bright machair flowers, moors, rolling hills and pristine white sand beaches.

John MacNeil, Barra born and bred, sums up the island's appeal: “ Barra is a truly special place, with its breathtaking scenery, proud culture and real sense of community.”

Castlebay is a good place to start exploring the island as Kisimul Castle still stands as a testimony to the influence of the Clan MacNeil, the family who have ruled Barra for muc...

 

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