Published in Scotland Magazine Issue 14 on 2/5/2004.

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Opportunities from oats

Sue Lawrence turns her attentions to one of Scotland's best loved and most important natural products

One cold frosty spring morning, I was lucky enough to see oats being milled in the old-fashioned way at the Montgarrie Mills near Alford, Aberdeenshire.

High above the roaring coal fire and under the huge domed chimney, I was able to stand on a bed of hot toasty oats (still in their husks so don’t worry about hygiene) and help turn them with a long-handled "sheeler" (wooden shovel) as they slowly dried over the heat of the coal fire three floors below.

Not only was the warmth and feel of those grains underfoot unforgettable but the smell of toasted nutty oats was sublime. It was like a comforting bowl of porridge on a Caribbean beach.

A reality check brought me back to my surroundings, with Donald Macdonald, production manager in the mill his great grandfather bought in 1894, leading me off the heated oaty carpet.

The cleaned, locally-grown oats had been laid out on the traditional flat kiln floor to dry for about four hours, turned to ensure even drying, until they have a moisture content of only 4.5% – far lower than most producers.

This might take a little longer but the resulting flavour is intensely oaty and nutty.Once they have cooled down (which can take up to 10 days) the oats are screened then put through two shelling stones, one to open the longest grains, the other to open the shorter husks. They are ground into the four cuts (fine, medium, rough, pinhead) and finally packed.

The oatmeal from this old mill has the most fabulous rich taste and wonderful textur.....

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By Sue Lawrence

Section : Scottish Food

Page number : 55