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Scotland Magazine Issue 36
Celebrating Scotland Across the World
Saturday 10th May 2008

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Scotland Magazine Issue 36
Scotland Magazine Issue 36
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Scotland Magazine section Scottish Food

A very modern sandwich

Sue Lawrence provides some more unusual ideas for the humble sandwich

We all do it. We know that at lunchtime we ought to be crunching into our tupperware-packed salads and nibbling on our nutritious, homemade sandwiches. But what do we do? We opt for a shopbought, cling-wrapped sandwich with the same old spread and some rather tired lettuce, processed cheese or ‘plas...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 35 published on 15/11/2007

Auld alliances

This issue, Sue Lawrence provides some recipes celebrating Scotland's historic associations with France and Italy

There has been a strong Italian community in Scotland for decades. Italians arrived in Edinburgh as early as the 1860s when, according to author of Dear Francesca, Mary Contini, they would congregate on Sundays at Church in the Cowgate for Mass then afterwards sit under the leafy elm trees in the Gr...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 34 published on 30/08/2007

Berry nice

Sue Lawrence provides some recipes using that quintessential summer fruit, the raspberry

Most people, on tasting their first raspberry of the season think of hot sun and summertime. My thoughts, however, are not of melba sauce or luscious raspberry jam, but of luggies and dreels and sore tummies. For, as a child, I was one of that happy band of berrypickers who were paid a paltry sum o...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 33 published on 22/06/2007

More tea, vicar?

Sue Lawrence provides some more mouthwatering recipes. This time, afternoon tea

There is good news for those whose favourite part of Oscar Wilde’s The Importance of Being Ernest is the garden scene where Gwendolene and Cicely have a refined slanging match over the tea table. For afternoon tea, with its three-tiered cake stand, cucumber sandwiches and silver tea strainers, is ba...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 32 published on 13/04/2007

Fields of Gold

Sue Lawrence provides a few recipes using that most traditional of Scottish ingredients, barley

I can think of few places in the world where there is evidence of a similarity of diet spanning 5,000 years. But in Orkney, I was lucky enough to visit the fascinating Skara Brae, a Neolithic village dating back to 3,100 BC, centuries before the Pyramids of Giza were even thought of. At Skara Brae...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 31 published on 16/02/2007

Souper Suppers

Nothing fills you up more than a hearty bowl of soup. Sue Lawrence provides some traditional Scots recipes

It might have been a day of sledging down the street, all muffled up in woolly hats and gloves to keep out the winter chill. Or a day of clambering over haystacks in the fields behind the garden, when even t-shirts and shorts were too hot in the summer sun. Whatever the weather however, our kitchen ...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 30 published on 01/12/2006

A bit on the side

This issue, Scotland Magazine’s resident chef Sue Lawrence breathes new life in to the humble salad

Cold meat and salad. Pork pie and salad. Scotch egg and salad. These uninspiring words bring back memories of the bad old days when a salad meant an accompaniment to some sort of cold meat – invariably tasteless and over-chilled, straight from the fridge – with an afterthought of lettuce, tomato an...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 29 published on 25/10/2006

Would you like puffin with that?

Sue Lawrence, whose latest book, A Cook’s Tour of Scotland, has just been published, selects highlights from it

When I read about the St Kildans’ tradition of boiling a puffin in with their oats to flavour their porridge, I was fascinated. Having been brought up on porridge cooked with nothing more than oats and salt, I wondered how it might taste and whether or not this unusual cooking method was perpetuate...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 28 published on 20/09/2006

Go on... treat yourself!

Chocoholics beware: Sue Lawrence is playing temptress

Itried. I really did try. I avoided pushing my trolley down the confectionery aisle in the supermarket. I immediately brushed my teeth after meals so I wouldn’t be tempted. I hid all bars and boxes and tried to banish from my memory their whereabouts. But I couldn’t do it. Having been challenged by...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 27 published on 09/06/2006

Get set to make great jam

Sue Lawrence preserves an old tradition

Making jam is not difficult. All it requires is fruit in prime condition, sugar and a bit of time spent in the kitchen. It also helps to understand what makes jam or jelly set: pectin, a natural substance that binds the fruit pulp with acid and sugar. Some fruit, such as strawberries, brambles and...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 26 published on 21/04/2006

Making the most of the traditional fish supper

Sue Lawrence enjoys the hedonistic delights of fish and chips

Fish and chips used to be a simple order. In Scotland it was haddock and chips; in England cod and chips, with plaice or skate topping the bill in certain areas. There were also regional variations when it came to the accompaniments such as pickled eggs, onions and mushy peas. But no matter which ...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 25 published on 17/02/2006

Bite-size delights

Canapés have an important role to play at parties, says Sue Lawrence. But keep them simple

Canapés have evolved throughout the last century. From the end of the Victorian and during the Edwardian era, there was a sense of glamour and sophistication at parties, with many culinary influences coming directly from France – or at least from Londonbased Escoffier. Champagne was a favourite dri...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 24 published on 05/01/2006

Making short work of it...

Shortbread is a national treasure, and Sue Lawrence can’t resist it. Here she extols its versatility

There I was, all trussed up in white coat, matching hat and snood, watching the Prickle Dockers at work. But as I watched them being rolled with great speed across the tray of dough then rolled back in the other direction, I could hardly concentrate on anything apart from the aroma. To paraphrase B...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 23 published on 14/10/2005

Chance to be a king at the castle

Special private events at Edinburgh Castle are highly popular. Sue Lawrence went to find out what was on offer

On November 24, 1440, a ‘Black Dinner’ took place in Edinburgh Castle in the presence of King James II, then aged 10 years old. A young rival for power, the Earl of Black Douglas, was also invited to dine and at the close of dinner a black bull’s head was placed in front of the Earl – a symbol repr...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 22 published on 10/08/2005

Head for the Shetlands

Salmon’s not only good for you, it’s surprisingly versatile. Sue Lawrence looks at some recipe ideas

In these days of concern (bordering on obsession) with health, I often wonder why more people are not eating salmon more regularly. It is packed full of Omega 3 fatty acids which are known to have a whole raft of health benefits. And to ensure the farmed salmon you buy (outwith the wild season) is ...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 21 published on 10/07/2005

Simply seeking the best

The best of Scottish cuisine matches anything found across the world – but you have to search for it. Vivien Devlin reports

For a few uninitiated visitors to Scotland, food and drink is represented by the ubiquitous haggis, shortbread, porridge and whisky. But there is far more to experience from the traditional Scottish larder. The experienced traveller may certainly be aware of Aberdeen Angus beef and Scottish salmon....

By Vivien Devlin from Issue 21 published on 10/07/2005

A matter of common scents

Scotland has some excellent cheeses and some excellent cheese dishes. Sue Lawrence suggests some options

There is something incredibly alluring about molten gooey cheese – the sight, smell, taste, texture – all somehow make us want to smile in anticipation, which is perhaps why photographers use the word so much. And whereas in the past our taste-buds were accustomed only to melted Cheddar on toast, no...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 20 published on 10/04/2005

A deer dish for dinner

Venison is becoming an increasingly common sight on British dinner tables. Sue Lawrence looks at why it is such a good meat product, and offers some recipes

The aroma of the juniper berries evoked thoughts of tonic, ice and lemon. The Arctic temperatures outside sharpened my appetite. But it was above all the taste of the reindeer stew itself which made my first experience of venison memorable. Had the alternative in that Lapp restaurant been something ...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 19 published on 20/3/2005

A match made in heaven

More and more people are discovering that whisky goes well with food. There are some lovely combinations. Sue Lawrence reports

The very prospect of drinking only whisky with dinner is alien to most people. At Burns Suppers it is something that is often done (and I must say often with dire consequences, since the same whisky is often glugged down with everything from soup and haggis to cheese and pudding!) But in fact, havin...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 18 published on 8/1/2005

A spot of home baking

Sue Lawrence relishes in the seductive smells of scones and cakes and delights in the sense of comfort such baking creates

It is 9.55am and the church fair is due to open at 10am. Behind the piles of neatly labelled and priced fruit loaves, pies, victoria sponges and home-made bread, we – the stall holders – are trying not to panic. For Mrs Mackie has not yet turned up. And despite the cornucopia of cakes and jam piled ...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 17 published on 29/11/2004

No better time to try seafood

The first week of October is Seafood Week organised by the Seafish Industry Authority. We mark it by publishing some recipes using Scottish fish and seafood

When it comes to compiling lists of essential things you really must do once in your life, sailing on the west coast of Scotland should figure somewhere. Not only is the coast rugged and beautiful, but it provides the ideal opportunity to try fantastic whisky. And of course fantastic seafood. These ...

By Dominic Roskrow from Issue 16 published on 15/9/2004

Scotland's all weather food

You can’t guarantee the weather in Scotland. But as Sue Lawrence reports, that doesn’t mean you have to give up on barbecues

It was early June, 1989 and we had taken a hort holiday to the island of Islay, off the west coast of Scotland, with the children who were all quite small. Anticipating downpours and gales, we were well prepared, with kit including wellies, waterproofs and woolly jumpers, all of which is the norm on...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 15 published on 18/7/2004

Opportunities from oats

Sue Lawrence turns her attentions to one of Scotland's best loved and most important natural products

One cold frosty spring morning, I was lucky enough to see oats being milled in the old-fashioned way at the Montgarrie Mills near Alford, Aberdeenshire. High above the roaring coal fire and under the huge domed chimney, I was able to stand on a bed of hot toasty oats (still in their husks so don’t ...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 14 published on 2/5/2004

A taste of honey

You might have to suffer a bit ot find the best honey - as Sue Lawrence found out. But was it worth it.

It was a gloriously warm summer morning in the Borders of Scotland. All I could see around me was purple heather – two shades (bell and ling) – along the sides of the valley. The tranquil picture was interrupted only by the glimpse of a stoat as it darted from one clump of sedge to another. Then, r...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 13 published on 25/3/2004

Pies and bridies

Pies and bridies have been an important part of Scottish culture for centuries and the standard has never been higher. Sue Lawrence picks a few favourites

As the shrill drone of the bagpipes settles into a pleasing skirl, the piper enters and a reverent hush falls over the expectant crowd. And as the silver ashet is held aloft behind him, they stride proudly around the room. With great ceremony, a dram is given to the piper and the salver bearer then...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 12 published on 19/1/2004

Having a Hearty Hogmanay

Hogmanay should be as much about good food as lots of drink. Sue Lawrence provides a few pointers

As a child, I used to love Hogmanay – and every year there were things that never changed. The home-made blackcurrant cordial might have been replaced by advocaat and lemonade as we became older, but there was always the tall dark man (my father) at the door at midnight with a piece of coal as the “...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 11 published on 17/11/2003

Treasures of the deep

SUE LAWRENCE TAKES YOU STEP-BY-STEP THROUGH PREPARING AND COOKING ONE OF SCOTLAND’S GREAT DELIGHTS – ITS SEAFOOD

The trick is never to look it in the eye. It’s fine when the fishmonger lines it up with its mates on the slab to see which one is biggest and the odd tentacle waves at you anonymously. But when he – no, never call it he or she, always it – is relaxing alone on your kitchen table, looking very laid ...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 10 published on 5/9/2003

Summer fruit fantastic

SUE LAWRENCE EXPLAINS HOW SHE GAINED HARD-EARNED EXPERIENCE “GOING TO THE BERRIES”, AND PROVIDES SOME STUNNING BERRY-INSPIRED RECIPES

My thoughts on tasting the first raspberry of the season are not of melba sauce, clotted cream or jam, but of luggies, dreels and fingernails dyed red. For I was one of that happy band of berry-pickers who were paid a paltry sum of money to pick berries all day long in sun, rain or wind, for the mon...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 9 published on 20/7/2003

Rich pickings

SUE LAWRENCE GETS CARRIED AWAY WITH THE SHEER INDULGENCE
OF COOKING WITH CHOCOLATE

Before we unwrap the packaging and indulge in a feast of chocolate, here are a few facts. Did you know that it takes the harvest of one cocoa tree to make about 20 bars of chocolate? Or that the Aztecs used cocoa beans as money and also ground them up to make a drink, flavoured with chilli, cinnamon...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 8 published on 17/5/2003

Crumbs of Comfort

SCOTTISH COMFORT FOOD IS
SERIOUS STUFF WHEN IT COMES TO QUALITY AND QUANTITY. SUE LAWRENCE EXPLAINS WHY

Comfort food comes in many shapes and sizes, but in Scotland it is invariably in the shape of a soup pot, casserole dish or pudding basin. There is nothing minimalist about comfort food and no place for fancy towers of food or pretty arrangements on plates. It is often served direct from the dish o...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 7 published on 7/3/2003

Fayre Game

SUE LAWRENCE EXPLAINS WHY GAME IS AN ‘IDEAL MODERN FOOD’ AND SHARES
EXPERT TIPS ON HOW TO PRODUCE DELICIOUS AND HEALTHY DISHES

We are fortunate in Scotland to have some of the finest game in the world. And although we might not tuck into heron or swan as our mediæval ancestors used to, we still have plenty to choose from. From the start of the season (August 12th when the grouse season starts) until February, we can chose f...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 5 published on 4/11/2002

Tea time

Sue Lawrence explores the ritual of afternoon tea the scottish way with a few tasty recipe ideas

Tea is a contentious subject in Britain. Not whether it is Earl Grey or Darjeeling in the pot or whether it is correct to pour the milk into the cup before or after the tea, but what exactly the meal of tea consists of. In the south, tea is generally a cup of that beverage with dainty sandwiches an...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 4 published on 9/9/2002

Picnic and mix

Sue Lawrence packs up a hamper with traditional Scottish goodiies- and slips in a few surprises for good measure...

Picnics are synonymous with sunshine. They suggest long hazy days easing into warm, balmy evenings. So why on earth do we even contemplate picnics in Scotland? Well, because whatever the weather (and this is the land of four seasons in a day), eating outdoors is still one of the most enjoyable exper...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 3 published on 5/7/2002

Shortbread Tastings

SUE LAWRENCE AND A PANEL OF TASTERS GET THEIR TEETH INTO SOME SHORTBREAD

Shortbread (‘short’ describes the crisp, crumbling texture) was originally a yeast-leavened mixture, but by the 1850’s the yeast had been abandoned and it was more or less as it is now – a rich blend of butter, flour and sugar. Meg Dods writing in 1826 suggests adding almonds and extra butter to mak...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 3 published on 5/7/2002

Breakfast of champions

Sue Lawrence looks at the traditional Scottish breakfast and adds a few ideas of her own...

Remember when sideboards groaned with silver salvers of bacon, eggs, sausages and kippers? No, neither do I. So why does this constitute the breakfast of our dreams? This scene is idyllic not just because of the unusual concept of a long, leisurely breakfast; nor simply the profusion of victuals. It...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 2 published on 5/6/2002

Simply soup-er

Sue Lawrence takes you to her traditional kitchen to enjoy three old-style Scottish broths

There is a charming paragraph in the legendary Elizabeth David’s French Provincial Cooking where she describes her first soup-making experience. She had been advised by the gastronomic authority among her contemporaries to take almost everything in the larder, including the remains of the salad, tip...

By Sue Lawrence from Issue 1 published on 5/3/2002



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